Dotonbori
Oh, Osaka. Travelers seem to either love it because it's different from the rest of Japan, or dislike it for the very same reason. As Monica and I wandered the streets near our hostel, we agreed this felt like the one place we'd been so far where we felt the need to keep an eye on our belongings.
Doing my research before the trip, the one thing that really stood out to me about Osaka was the food. Figuring we'd just need one night to experience it, I reserved two beds at Khaosan World Namba, a hostel that was super close to the train station, within easy walking distance of the food/nightlife area, Dotonbori.
From Koya-san, we got into Osaka by late afternoon. We quickly found our hostel and checked in. The rooms featured interesting gold bunks - also at least one guy staying in the female dorm, inexplicably. We headed out to check out Dotonbori. It was a balmy evening, and with the bustling crowds of Asian tourists and all the neon lights, Dotonbori felt like I would imagine Shanghai or Taipei to feel. There was so much amazing-looking food - takoyaki, oysters, ramen, yakitori.
I saw skewers of the latter being sold and headed toward them, but Monica wandered off, which I took as disinterest. We walked around to the canal side. I suggested we try Kobe beef, knowing it would be entirely fish-free, and just wanting to eat something.
Long story short, we found a place by the side of the canal. The view was great, but the food was expensive for what it was and the service lacking. I found myself frustrated by not being able to communicate when one item wasn't delivered to our table. We were unable to cancel it, ending up getting it as we were ready to pay our bill and go. Monica said she wished we'd just gotten some beef skewers on the street.
On this trip, I started questioning if I've been a solo traveler long enough that I'd forgotten how to travel with other people. I'm not always great at communication, I obsess over planning and seeing as much as I possibly can as I travel, and I'm introverted to the point I occasionally wonder if I'm vaguely on the spectrum. I freaking love my cousin to death, but on this trip we definitely both annoyed one another at points and each made the other cry, at least once. Tonight was my turn.
We headed back to the hostel for gyoza and drinks. I hadn't realized they were free(!), and therefore had been noncommittal when Monica mentioned it as a dinner option earlier. I gave up on seeing the GLICO man, the one photo I wanted to snap in Osaka, despite being just around the corner.
In the end, it was 100% worth it. I had planned the whole trip, and most of it was built around my travel style and my personality and what I wanted to get out of Japan - so it was good that in Osaka, we were able to experience something a little different.
While eating gyoza, we talked to other people. Monica started a conversation with another American and some Scots. Eventually a kind Aussie started chatting with me, then two guys from India and Uruguay. (We talked about the World Cup, yay.) Soon, plans were made for the whole group to do karaoke.
The group grew as we headed out. We talked to a Russian who hates Putin but loves Trump (how, even?) and ended up at a loud, smoky bar with overpriced drinks, instead of a karaoke place. It was fun enough and we had some good conversations, but by 11:30, I was done. I asked Monica if she would be okay staying with the group on her own (yes) and took off.
As I left the bar and rounded the corner, I felt like I was flying. I walked through Dotonbori, alone, for about twenty minutes and felt my energy returning. I snapped a shot of the GLICO man, his lights now off. Back at the hostel, I got a towel from the night clerk and showered away the cigarette smell before crashing. Monica was back hours later, having had a fun night out clubbing. It felt a little cathartic, on both ends.
There should be some sort of moral at the end of this story, but I don't feel like trying to wrap it up neatly. I'm not even 100% sure I should hit "publish" - I love writing introspective posts, but don't always feel comfortable doing so when it involves other people, who don't get to share their thoughts and experiences in this space. The alternative, I guess, is making this post a pic spam, which somehow feels disingenuous.
So, anyway. That was Osaka.
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